Shoulder-to-Shoulder with the Lobster Boats of Tenants Harbor

Upon entering Tenants Harbor, and Penobscot bay as a side effect, we ran through the VHF channels trying to contact any one of the three businesses offering moorings (no anchoring in the harbor). Helllllooo? No one. We gave up and grabbed a mooring figuring that either a pissed off lobsterman or someone to collect the rent would show up eventually. Turned out to be the latter. Fortunately for us, the price of moorings is dropping about as fast as the price of lobster as we head up the coast. A long hot shower? Whoah! We were soooo excited. Wifi, in theory, but not really. No cell coverage either. Oh well.

I'm not sure about the spacing of moorings in Tenants Harbor. Tenants is a working harbor full of mostly lobster boats. When the tidal current goes one way and the wind another, lobster boats and sailboats swing differently. Thump went the lobster boat. Wat? No harm because the gunwales lined up such that the lobster boat was bumping our ipe rub rails: hard as nails they are. Once the tide changed a bit we would be sorted out for the night.

We had a wonderful dinner (Ya, ya, I know, a shower AND a dinner ashore? Such excess.) at Corinna's Happy Clam. Oh yummy mussels, scallops, and haddock. Super nice folk as well.

At the first lobster boat, 5:15 am, I awoke to a foggy harbor. Sitting in the cockpit, I watched dozens of ducks roam the harbor. I wish I knew what kind of duck: nothing I've seen before. A lone seal also passed by, but shy. A small movement on my part and he disappears beneath the oily ripples. Feeling a chill in the fog, I made some coffee to warm the cockles and watch the harbor slowly come to life. A few recalcitrant outboards as the lobstermen ferry themselves to their boats. One tops off with fuel. Another exchanges some lobster cars at Art's Lobsters on the wharf. One by one they disappear into the fog. Some are friendly and wave as they pass astern of Alizée. Others, no so much. One remarks to me enthusiastically on what a fine day it is.

After Cath rolls out of the bunk, we have a light breakfast and hop into Puff and row ashore for a couple of tasty pastries (breakfast desert!) at the School House Bakery (next to the Happy Clam) and a morning walk. What a wonderful start to the day. As soon as the tide turns we head out to ride a fair current through Muscle Ridge Shoals up to Pulpit Harbor.